Jean-Baptiste Tavernier is one of the travellers who were in Isfahan at the beginning of Shah Suleiman’s rule.
He describes the atmosphere of Muharram in Naqsh-e Jahan Square as follow:
“Twelve processions from the twelve neighbourhoods of Isfahan came to Naqsh-e Jahan Square with alams, kotals, kajavehs,* and other apparatus required for mourning. Each procession had a kajaveh, which eight to ten people moved it. The wood of the kajaveh was decorated with paintings of various flowers. Inside each kajaveh, a coffin was placed, which was covered with golden brocade. At the front of each procession, a yadak was dragged. The yadaks were saddled and some swords, daggers and bows were hanging from them. At a hundred paces from the Shah’s seat, they whipped and let loose the horses carrying the yadaks, and the procession ran after the horses while holding the kajavehs. These horses were, in a way, a symbol of the horses that the martyrs of Karbala rode into battle.”
* special objects made and decorated for using in Muharram mourning rituals
